Site Index

KLR650 FUSE BOX MODIFICATION

by Arne Larsen

Last weekend I had the opportunity to get away from the responsibilities that are associated with "days off around the house", and go off-roading with a couple of fine fellows, whom I met through the KLR650 E-Mail List.

Well, the first thing that three new (to each other) riders do upon meeting for the first time and saying hello, is to compare bikes and their various modifications. As I have only owned my A13 for a short period of time, my
introduction was short and to-the-point. "Hi, I'm Arne and this is my bike. Nope, haven't touched a thing. First time? Naaah, I've been off-roading before (18 years ago, but who's counting)". So I'm thinking to myself..., "I am in need of some serious tweaking".

One of the modifications that both Casey and Brian had performed on their KLR's, was the re-location and improving of the stock fuse boxes. The fuse box under the seat was by-passed, and re-located to an easily accessible location on the side of the bike, and designed to accept the more durable blade-type fuses. The cooling fan circuit fuse box was left in its' stock location (under the front, right cowling - beside the radiator overflow tank), but was also changed to accept a blade fuse.

The reason for performing this modification is two-fold. The blade fuses are more durable and able to withstand the rigors of off-road riding better than the conventional glass fuses; and the re-location comes in very handy
if you ever do need to change a fuse (especially out on the trail where the last thing you feel like doing is removing the side panels and the seat just to gain access to the fuse box).

Inheriting the "tinkering" gene from my Grandfather, and the "laziness" gene (which I take sole responsibility for 'personally' developing), I liked what I saw, but wanted to take this modification a step further - while at the
same time making the procedure less work.

I also would like to add that what is to follow is not an original idea. Well... it is an original idea - it just isn't "my" original idea. I remembered reading about re-settable circuit breakers during one of my long and arduous
searches of the KLR650 E-Mail Archives.

What I decided to do was replace, but not re-locate, the stock fuse boxes with re-settable circuit-breakers. Not really knowing what I was looking for, but knowing what I wanted (if that makes any sense???) I set out to gather the necessary parts. Fortunately I didn't have to look too far. I found the first items - 3 fuse holders, and 3 heavy duty circuit-breakers - at the local LORDCO auto parts store. The other item I needed was a switch (I'll explain more on this later). I found the perfect switch at PRINCESS AUTO. I also decided to purchase a heavy duty 2-prong trailer plug for the new (under the seat) fuse box I was going to make, as I could not find a match for the stock connector. You may also notice, in the accompanying photographs, that the fuse holders have half-moon indents, and the circuit breakers have grooves in the blades. I trimmed the fuse holders down to the bottom of the crescent, and snapped off the breaker blades to their shortest length, to make the final assembly as compact as possible.

The procedure is relatively simple. Locate the main fuse box by removing the side panels and the seat. Here you will notice the fuse box tucked into a recess. (NOTE: While some may recommend to disconnect the battery
before proceeding further, I left it connected so I could use a circuit tester to check things along the way). Unplug the two-plug connector at one end, and the two bullet connectors at the other end, and out it comes. The cooling
fan circuit fuse box is even simpler to remove: wire cutters - snip, snip.

With two of the fuse holders and one 10 amp, and one 20 amp circuit-breaker, you will build a new main fuse box (actually, what you are building is a mini circuit-breaker panel). Here is where I also used the two-prong trailer plug, putting one end on the new fuse box, and the receiving end in place of the stock connector on the bike. I chose to save the original connector by plugging it back in the original fuse box and putting it away, should I
ever decide to revert to the original configuration. I will also provide you with three cautions here: (1) Keep track of which circuit is which. If you do cross-wire the new fuse box you will know it, as your headlight will
light up (ask me how I figured this out). I kept the white wire consistent so as I could remove the new box (and put it back in) without having to figure out which side is which. (2) Keep track of which circuit breaker goes where, as one side requires a 20 amp, and the other a 10 amp. and (3) If your circuit breakers are marked "Battery" on one side and "Aux" on the other (as mine were) keep the battery side to the (hot) bullet connector side.

The second fuse box (fan circuit), requires an interrupt switch be connected in-line on the hot side of the fuse box. The reason for this lies in the re-set. In order to re-set these types of breakers, you must cut/stop the current flowing through them. For the main breaker box under the seat this is simple - turn the ignition key off. The fan circuit is unique though, as it is constantly powered. This is designed this way to allow the cooling fan to continue operating even after you have turned your bike off.

While different types of switches could be made to work, I found what I think is ideal. The switch I have, which can be seen attached to the overflow front cover, is always closed. This means that, providing you don't press the button, current can flow through unhindered. Pressing in the button breaks that continuity until it's released. If you look closely, you can see that the switch body is red. It did not come this way (although there may be some that do). To protect the switch from the elements, I dipped it in a rubberized/vinyl coating commonly used for coating tool handles. After allowing it to cure a couple hours, I cut around the terminal connectors and cleaned them off. Regarding the connecting of the switch, make certain you place it in-line on the hot side of the breaker. This can easily be determined using a simple circuit tester. If you are unfamiliar with them, all they are is a light bulb and a couple of wires. Touch one end to one of the wires and ground the other end to the metal body of the bike. When the light comes on, you have found the hot side.

For the record, I soldered and heat-shrank all of my connections. This keeps things neat, protected, and I will never have to worry about things coming apart. I will also devise a way to protect the push-button side of
the switch from the elements as well. At this point I am thinking a small piece of surgical tubing would slide over the button and keep any water and road spray out.

Finally, take your time and work neatly. And when you're finished, step back (smile), and know that you will not have to worry about tearing the bike apart on the trail in the middle of the night to change a blown fuse.

Arne Larsen