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Clutch Change Procedure

by Eddie Caton

 

1.0 SCOPE

This procedure was successfully used to change the clutch in a KLR 650 A10.

Additional scope that may be performed in conjunction with this procedure:

Lubrication of Rear Brake Lever Shaft
Lubrication or replacement of Clutch Cable
Oil and Filter Change
Engine Coolant Change
Cleaning of Oil Return Screen
Replacement of Coolant hoses.

2.0 LIMITS AND PRECAUTIONS

2.1 Note that the exhaust was removed prior to performing this procedure. It is not mentioned as a prerequisite in the Service Manual. Having the exhaust removed may have made some steps easier.

2.2 Note that the ¼" drive socket and extension are necessary for removing the side cover. A 3/8" drive socket would not have sufficient clearance.

2.3 If it is not known whether the clutch disks are worn, delay step 5.1 until inspection of clutch is complete.

2.4 Author's note: The clutch kit specified in 4.0 included 7 new clutch friction plates. Seven plates are indicated on the exploded view of the Kawasaki base manual. The author's bike, an A10, had 8 clutch plates, (the most outboard plate was located differently within the basket). Subsequently, one of the existing clutch plates was re-used. Ensure that the correct clutch kit is ordered for your bike.

2.5 It is not necessary to remove the clutch release lever to perform a clutch replacement. Note that some KLRs have a positioning bolt for the clutch release mechanism that is mentioned in the Service Manual Supplement. It is not known to the author if it is necessary to remove this bolt in order to replace the clutch.

2.6 The Kawasaki service manual does not outline all of the steps covered in this procedure. It is not necessary to remove the entire clutch from the engine, merely the clutch disks and plates. Therefore, no special tools are requires as suggested by the manual.

3.0 TOOLS

Note: Not all of these tools were used by the author, but each tool should be available if necessary.

8 mm wrench
9 mm wrench (?)
10 mm wrench
11 mm wrench
12 mm wrench
17 mm wrench
8mm nut driver (optional)
Phillips Screwdriver
Gasket Scraper

¼" Drive:
8 mm socket
extension
ratchet
¼" - 3/8" adapter
3/8" drive:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
ratchet
extension

Allen wrench for skid plate.

Drain Pan
1, 8" diameter pan
Torque Wrench
Dead-Blow Hammer (or Rubber Mallet)
Funnel

4.0 MATERIALS

Side Cover Gasket
Water pump gasket
Clutch Plate Kit (7) (EBC Part# CK4424)
Clutch Springs (5) (EBC Part # CSK10)
Motor Oil
Oil Filter
Radiator Fluid
Rags
Q-Tips

5.0 PROCEDURE

5.1 Soak new disks in new engine oil in a pan. (Manufacturer recommends 2 hrs).

5.2 Lay tar-paper or other disposable barrier under bike.

5.3 Remove rear brake-pedal brakelight spring.

5.4 Mark (scribe) rear brake pedal and shaft to assist realignment of pedal during reassembly.

5.5 Remove rear brake pedal from shaft. (It may dangle from the brake cylinder)

5.6 Remove skid plate.

5.7 Remove kick pedal if so equipped.

5.8 Remove RH foot peg.

5.9 Remove bottom of brake cable from clutch release shaft.

Note: If the brake cable is lubricated at this time, excess lubricant dripping from the bottom of the cable will assist cleaning of the RH engine casing seam.

5.10 Clean the seam of the RH engine cover to prevent debris from entering the engine upon disassembly.

5.11 Drain the motor oil.

5.12 Remove the oil filter cover. Remove used oil filter and discard.

5.13 Remove the radiator cap.

5.14 Remove the water pump drain bolt and drain the coolant.

5.15 Remove the bottom of both coolant hoses.

5.16 Remove the three bolts securing the water pump impeller cover and remove cover. Use care not to damage gasket of cover.

5.17 Remove the nut from the water pump impeller shaft and remove the water pump impeller.

5.18 Loosen all bolts securing the RH engine cover - one or two threads loose.

5.19 Tap on engine cover USING A SOFT FACED HAMMER to dislodge gasket at casing seam.
Author's note: Significant effort may be required to dislodge the side cover.

5.20 Remove all but three or four bolts. Back off these bolts significantly. Draw the engine cover from the engine, observing gasket surface. Care may save the existing gasket. When gasket is preserved, remove the side cover.

5.21 Loosen bolts, remove the 5 clutch springs from the clutch basket cover and remove the basket cover.

5.22 Remove the clutch friction plates and steel plates.

5.23 Reassemble clutch basket in same order as removed.

5.24 Replace clutch basket cover.

5.25 Replace clutch springs and bolts. Tighten bolts to 7 ft-lb.

5.26 Repair or replace side cover gasket if necessary.

5.27 Replace side cover. The clutch release shaft will need to be positioned correctly to align with the clutch spring plate pusher's end.

5.28 Align side cover and install bolts to fasten side cover to the engine casing. Tighten evenly.

5.29 Replace clutch cable. Adjust cable and verify smooth operation of clutch.

5.30 Install the water pump impeller and fasten with impeller nut. Tighten nut to 69 in-lb.

5.31 Install water pump impeller cover.

5.32 Install new oil filter and replace oil filter cover.

5.33 Replace coolant hoses, coolant drain bolt, and torque drain bolt to 69 in-lb.

5.34 Replace coolant and engine oil.

5.35 Replace foot pedal if so equipped.

5.36 Replace foot peg.

5.37 Replace brake pedal and brakelight spring.

5.38 Replace skid plate.

Contact the author at: dyanetti@hotmail.com

Chris Beasley wrote:
One suggestion, on the clutch procedure, is that the user wiggle and turn the water pump impeller while removing it from the balance shaft extension. This is because 1/2 of the seal for that shaft lives in the backside of the impeller, and there's a rubber lip within that can get torn if you just pull the impeller off straight.
The shaft can be cleaned and lubed light before replacing that impeller the same way, wiggling and turning ( mostly turning if ya know what I mean...). I like to be careful with that seal, having replaced more than one... ( it's a little involved ).




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